 |
|
TEST NO. 3
|
INSERT THE �MAG-PROBES� TIP INTO THE LOOP MADE IN TEST NO. 1
AS SHOWN IN FIGURE A-1. THE LIGHT IN THE "MAG-PROBE� SHOULD
TURN ON. IF IT DOESN�T, REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR. REMEMBER, THE
ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING AT A FAST IDLE DURING THIS TEST, WITH
THE HEADLIGHTS ON.
NOW THAT YOU HAVE A LOOP IN THE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT WIRE YOU CAN
MAKE A QUICK TEST BY (1) STARTING THE ENGINE (2) TURNING ON
THE HEADLIGHTS AND GOING DIRECTLY TO TEST NO. 3.
|
|
TESTING
STANDARD IGNITION SYSTEMS |
|
TO FIND OUT IF THE POINTS IN THE DISTRIBUTOR ARE OPERATING
(OPENING AND CLOSING), WITHOUT REMOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP �
HOLD THE �MAG-PROBE� ABOUT 4 INCHES AWAY FROM THE COILS� TOP
AS ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE �B�
|
|
|
|
NOW HAVE SOMEONE TURN ON THE ENGINE�S
STARTER AS YOU OBSERVE THE �MAG-PROBE�. SLOWLY MOVE
THE �MAG-PROBE� IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROW
(TOWARD THE COIL). AT A POINT NEAR THE COIL, THE LED
SHOULD START FLASHING ON AND OFF. |
|
|
IF THE LED TURNS ON AND STAYS ON AS THE ENGINE CRANKS, THE
POINTS ARE STAYING CLOSED. IF THE LED NEVER TURNS ON EVEN WHEN
YOU TOUCH THE TOP OF THE COIL, THE POINTS ARE STAYING OPEN OR
THE IGNITION SWITCH ISN�T SUPPLYING VOLTAGE TO THE COIL, ABOUT
99% OF THE TIME, FAULTY POINTS ARE THE PROBLEM.
|
|
TESTING ELECTRONIC IGNITION
SYSTEMS |
| |
|
LOCATE THE IGNITION COIL. ON SOME GM CARS IT�S MOUNTED ON TOP
OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, FIGURE �C�. |
|
 |
|
ON MOST OTHER
CARS, FOREIGN INCLUDED, THE COIL IS LOCATED AWAY FROM THE
DISTRIBUTOR, FIG. �B�. THE CENTER HIGH TENSION WIRE IN THE
DISTRIBUTOR WILL BE PLUGGED INTO THE COIL.
|
|
 |
TO FIND OUT
IF THE ELECTRONIC SYSTEMS IS APPLYING CURRENT TO THE COIL,
HOLD THE �MAG--PROBE� ABOUT 4 INCHES AWAY FROM THE COIL�S TOP
AS ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE �C�. NOW PERFORM TEST �B�. IF THE LED
TURNS ON AND STAYS ON OR NEVER TURNS ON, THE �ELECTRONIC
MODULE� OR �ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT� IS PROBABLY BAD. ABOUT
90% OF THE TIME, THIS IS THE PROBLEM.
ON GM CARS, THE
ELECTRONIC MODULE IS LOCATED INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR. ON MOST
OTHER CARS, THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT IS MOUNTED OUTSIDE THE
DISTRIBUTOR.
IF THE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF AS IT SHOULD IN THE ABOVE
PROCEDURE AND THE CAR STILL WON�T START, THEN REMOVE A HIGH
TENSION WIRE FROM A SPARK PLUG AND HOLD IT � INCH FROM THE
ENGINE BLOCK AND CRANK THE ENGINE. IF YOU DON�T SEE ANY SPARK
OR IT WON�T JUMP AT LEAST ��, REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND
CHECK THE CRACKS OR BLACK LINES (CARBON ARCS) FROM THE CENTER
CONTACT DOWN SIDES. CHANGE IT IF YOU SEE ANY.
IF THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP LOOKS OKAY, YOU PROBABLY HAVE A BAD
COIL.
|
|
TESTING
ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS
HINTS
|
NO. 1 IF YOUR CAR
WON�T START AND IT USES AN ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT, PULL THE
PLUGS OUT OF THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT AND GIVE THEN A GOOD
CLEANING.
NO. 2 CHRYSLER: CAR WON�T START. WATCH OUT FOR A BAD BALLAST
RESISTOR. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM. WHEN ONE BURNS OUT, YOU
CAN SEE IT BY UNSCREWING IT FROM THE FIREWALL.
FIND OUT WHERE IT�S LOCATED BEFORE YOU HAVE STARTING PROBLEMS.
KEEP A SPARE IN YOUR TRUNK.
|
|
2 MODELS TO CHOOSE FROM
Standard Sensitivity Model �S�
For testing the largest to standard
sized solenoids and relays, suitable for automation
applications, including alternators and voltage regulator
tests.
High Sensitivity Model �HS�
Out most sensitive model. For testing
the largest to sub-miniature solenoids, relays and most
reed relays and all automotive applications.
|
|
| |
| |
| |
|
 |
